Bodacious Babes - Costuming for the Luxury Sized
Those Fabulous Feet
The Importance of Footwear
The hardest part of any costume is the footwear. What shoes look good? Where
do you find them? What if you have foot problems and need special shoes?
What if you have really big feet?
No matter how lovely your costume, or how coordinated your look, if your shoes
don't match, it throws off the whole look. In street clothes, you may not
care. I usually wear black lace-up Skechers, regardless of what I'm wearing
that day, because my feet are so bad, and I need the comfortable sole and
support. When I dress up, though, it's a different story!
Historical accuracy is important in the SCA, but for most of us, something
that "looks cool" is probably sufficient. It's actually a lot easier to get
footwear to coordinate with your clothes than people seem to think.
Some basic footwear advice:
- Invest in a good pair of generic costume shoes
I have one good pair of black boots that will go with most things I wear
at cons, from costumes to sexy velvet and lace outfits. Spend more than
$19.95, be sure they fit very well, add padded insoles, and you will be very
happy with them. Whether you choose black or brown, boots or shoes, pick
something that coordinates with your tastes and buy a good quality pair.
If you choose slippers, buy a pair with leather soles and good construction.
Even high-quality slippers are usually under $20.
- Avoid tennis shoes
Unless you're in street clothes or have some really really funky nifty
tennis shoes, avoid them with costumes. Lace-up shoes in general don't work
well with costumes, unless they are medieval-style lace up shoes or sandals.
There's no faster way to be labeled a "dork" by the Fashion Police than to
wear tennis shoes with a dress!
- Wear proper socks
Even good shoes fit funny if you're wearing the wrong kind of socks. Your
feet will also look wrong if you are wearing a lovely coordinated outfit,
nice shoes, and white athletic socks. But do wear socks or stockings of
some kind, and be sure they are not too big! Your feet will thank you.
Where Do I Find Costume Footwear?
This is an easier question to answer if you have average-sized feet that don't
require special care.
Ballet style slippers in plain black or white look fine
with most outfits, and are cheap and usually easy to find, at dance stores or
even in the slipper section of department stores. They are easy to decorate
with ribbon, buttons, and trim to match your outfit, or just leave them
plain so they match more clothes. They're fantastic for dancing.
Plain black or brown boots work as well, for the more dashing sword-play
or ranger-type outfit.
You can also find some nifty shoes at just about any shoe store, which may
not be "period", but if they look cool, who cares?
If you do a search online for "renaissance boots", "celtic boots", or
"custom footwear", you can come up with quite a few neat sources for shoes.
Again, these probably will work best for your if your feet are not too big
or too small, and if you don't have any special foot requirements. If you
can generally walk into any shoe store and pick a pair that fits, you're
probably good to buy shoes off the 'net.
If you are on a budget, try the Goodwill or other thrift stores. You can
sometimes find some incredibly funky stuff there. There's also eBay, which
is a little harder to search, and you have to break the cardinal rule of
Try It On First, but at least you can get some good deals. You can always
post it back for sale if it doesn't work out for you, or indulge in a clothing
swap with some of your friends!
Check out the links page for more
ideas on where to purchase the perfect shoes.
But I Have Really Really Bad Feet!
Welcome to the club. My feet are so flat my podiatrist took one look and
exclaimed, "My goodness, you have really flat feet!" And this is a man who
looks at feet all day long. Fortunately, my condition is such that I can
wear virtually any shoes for a short period of time, and can wear most good
shoes or flat shoes for a long time. But what if you need more than that?
Following are some suggestions for those of us who need a little more care
when dealing with our feet. This is often the case for Luxury Sized women,
who may be carrying more weight than their feet were designed for, or who
may have other health issues concerning their feet, like diabetes.
Some of these are more trouble than others, but try a few and see if they
will work for you.
- Invest in higher-quality shoes
Expense is a consideration, of course, but if you invest in one pair of
good quality, semi-generic costume boots or shoes, you are set for a variety
of costumes. Black or brown boots, or plain black or brown flats are good
options. Find something with the type of insole you need, and break them in
well before wearing them to an all-day event like a Con or a Faire.
- Consider wearing slippers
Ballet style slippers look good with just about any skirt or dress costume
from any time period. If you are more comfortable barefoot than in shoes, or
have a hard time getting shoes to fit well, this
option may work. You can get thick lycra slippers with soft leather
soles from most department stores or large variety stores. Isotoners is one
brand. You can also get actual dance slippers from dance supply stores.
You can sew or glue matching trim to your slippers and create quite a nice
pair of matching shoes for most styles of costumes.
- Add orthotics or insoles
There's no reason you can't use orthotics or special insoles in costume
shoes as well as in your street shoes! If you have ones given to you by
your doctor, use those. If not, there are a huge variety of athletic and
work insoles you can buy. These range in price from a few dollars to $20 or
more, and can be found in sporting goods stores and drug stores. A nice
cushy insole can make a world of difference!
- Make spats
If all else fails, and you're stuck with shoes that don't look very
attractive, try making yourself some spats! What's a spat? Picture one of
those early 1900's gentlemen in a top hat and tails, white gloves, and wearing
little white button-down covers over his shoes. Those button-down covers are
called spats. There are a couple of ways to make these:
- Find shoes you like that are bigger than yours and slice off the sole.
Put these sole-free shoes on first, then put on your normal shoes, and push
the covers down over the top of your shoes. An elastic band across the bottom
can help hold the covers down where they belong.
- Get some fabric that matches your costume, or even just some plain black
felt. Lay your foot down on its side on the fabric, and trace around your foot
and up your ankle. Add 1" on all sides. Cut out four pieces of fabric of
this shape, and sew two together for each spat. Turn inside out so that the
seam is on the inside. Decorate! Add an elastic band to the bottom to help
hold the spat down. (For more detailed directions on essentially the same
process, see the next section on making your own shoes).
- Purchase ready-made costume spats. These can be found in many costume
stores and theatre supply stores.
Make Your Own Shoes!
Sound impossible? Not at all! This works particularly well if you want
thigh-high boots or high shoes. The shoes you get from this method are not
especially sturdy, but they are more than adequate for a costume. And for
those of you who can't sew...hot glue will work almost as well!
(If you want to get REALLY fancy, and have time, patience, and some manual
dexterity, there are detailed instructions at Footwear of the Middle Ages. It's
a very impressive site with great instructions that I hope to try someday.)
You Will Need:
- One pair of leather-soled slippers, your size
Color is more or less irrelevant, but black or white work well. Isotoners
sells these for about $19 a pair, but they can often be had for $10 a pair on
sale. You can also substitute a piece of thin leather or even felt, but the
bottom of your shoes won't be nearly as sturdy.
- Sturdy fabric
If you are a novice tailor, I highly recommend felt. It doesn't fray, it's
fairly sturdy, it wears well, it's easy to cut, and comes in a variety of
bright colors. Vinyl, denim, or heavy cotton canvas work well too. Fake fur
can look terrific, but is a real pain to work with.
- Sewing needle, thread, scissors
Thread to match the color of your fabric is good, or you can pick clear
filment thread. Filament is a little harder to work with, so if your
threshold of frustration is low, choose plain thread.
- Hot glue
If you prefer to sew, that's fine. You'll wind up with a sturdier product,
and don't have to worry about getting glue on the wrong spots. However, if you
don't sew, never fear! A low-temp hotglue gun works almost as well. I once
made some thigh-high boots for a Rogue/X-men costume using nothing but hot
glue, and they held up so well I recycled them into another costume later.
- Trims and accessories
Ribbons, interesting buttons, fringe, whatever you want.
- Permanent marker or fabric pen, straight pins, tape measure
How To Make Your Shoes
* Consider making a mockup first *
If you are not adept at sewing, you might wish to do all of the basic steps
using muslin or felt first, to see how the shoe or boot will look. Cut out the
pattern for both shoes, but only make one. If it works, proceed with the other
one as a pattern for your "real" shoes. If it does not work, figure out what
is wrong, and either enlarge or narrow the shoe as necessary. Repeat on
another mockup until you get the fit you want. For the sole of the mockup,
don't use slippers, use the method described for cutting your own soles.
1) Lay the fabric out on the floor, wrong-side up. If you have a
lineoleum, concrete, or hardwood floor, that's the best. If all you have to
work on is carpeting, find something hard that will let you draw on the fabric
better and slide it under the fabric.
2) Sit on the floor by your fabric. Stretch out your leg so it's
laying on its side on the fabric. If there is a pattern to the fabric, be sure
that it's pointed the way you want in relation to your leg. If you cannot
lay your leg out like this, skip to 3a).
3) Trace around your leg with a marker or fabric pen. Be sure the
marker doesn't bleed through to the right side of the fabric! Trace up as
high on your leg as you want the boot or shoe to go.
3a) If you cannot sit on the floor and trace your leg, enlist the help
of a friend. Tack the fabric to a wall, wrong side out. Make sure the pattern
on the fabric is going the way you want. Stand next to the wall, or even stick
your leg out along the wall from your chair, and have the friend trace around
your leg for you.
4) Fold or arrange the fabric so that it's two layers thick at the
point where you traced your leg. Be sure that the tracing is visible to you,
and that the fabric layers are right side together.
5) Enlarge the pattern or add details to the design. If you want
pointy toes, draw a straight line out from the sole of your foot as far forward
as you want the point to go. Draw in a curl if you want. Then connect the
point or curled toe in a smooth curve to
about where the midpoint of your foot would be. If you want thigh-high boots
that flare at the top, take your marker and flare out the pattern to as wide
as you think you want the boots to be.
6) When you cut the fabric, do NOT cut on the lines you traced! You
need to leave a seam allowance of approximately an inch on all sides. This
means you should cut 1" to the outside of all your lines, including the
top of the shoe and the sole of your foot. Remember...you can always cut more
off later, but you can't add it back on!
7) Cut out another pair just like that, unless your feet are very
very different sizes. If they are, repeat steps 1-6 with your other leg.
Make sure than when you cut out the second pair that the fabric is again
doubled, and again has right sides together.
8) Sew (or hotglue) each pair together, wrong sides out, along the
front and back seams, from the top to where the sole will meet. If you are
making pointy-toed shoes, also sew from the point to 1" out from where the
toe of your foot actually ended.
9) Make the sole. (If you are going to be using a slipper, skip to
10). Place your feet on a piece of vinyl or thin leather, or even felt,
wrong side of the fabric towards your feet. Trace around your feet, adding
about 3/4" on all sides. Cut out both soles. If you use felt, consider
using two or more layers.
10) Attach the sole to the shoe. Place the sole (or slipper) with the
surface that will be touching the actual ground against the bottom of the shoe
you're working on. The shoe should still be inside out.
- If you are sewing: Sew around the edges.
If you're using a slipper, sew as close to the sole of the shoe as you can. Be
sure that you are sewing the RIGHT side of the shoe fabric to the edge of the
slipper or sole.
- If you're using hot glue: Place
the glue as close to the edge of the sole as possible, on the side where
your foot will be placed (wrong side of the sole, OR on the edge of the slipper
where it meets the sole). Slip the sole down just inside the sole part of the
shoe, and press the RIGHT side of the shoe fabric into the glue. You will be
walking on this glued-down fabric inside your shoe, so you may want to consider
buying some insoles to cover that up.
11) Turn down the top of the shoe/boot and tack down to form a hem,
if desired. Not necessary if you're using felt, leather, or vinyl.
12) Decorate! Glue or sew on ribbons, edging, sequins, beads, buckles,
bows, or anything else you want! Cover up bad sewing with trim!