Underpinnings (Theatre-Speak for Underwear)

Although many people will probably disagree with me, I feel that strange lumpybumpies under your clothing really ruin your overall appearance, and can turn a beautiful costume into a dumpy nightmare. I strongly advocate the purchase or construction of proper underclothing to create the look you want to achieve. Just say no to Panty Lines!

Seriously, underpinnings are called "foundation" garments for a reason. They are the foundation of your outfit. For some outfits, a strong foundation can keep the lines of your costume straight and make the outfit simply fit your body properly. They can improve your posture, and create a multitude of illusory effects, all while hidden beneath your clothing.

"Special" underwear can also help you in more subtle ways. While it's not necessary to match your undies to your bra, or to wear a really sexy bra under a sexy outfit, you know what's on under your clothing, and it can affect the way you carry yourself and behave, even if it's only on a subconscious level! Dress as if people will see your undies, and try to match them to your costumes. It's worth the effort.

Good Cleavage vs. Bad Cleavage

I took the name of this section from the title of a panel at Rustycon 17. Hey, it's a catchy name! So what is good cleavage? Do you know it when you see it? More importantly, do other people notice it when they see it? And how do you make sure that you have good cleavage and not bad cleavage? (This is if you choose to display cleavage...and I highly recommend you do. The effect can be amazing, even at a hundred paces.)

Cleavage can be created by bras, cinchers, corsets, bodices, vests, or sometimes just comes naturally. What exactly should you be going for when it comes to your decolletage?

Good cleavage...

... is a single smooth line where your breasts meet.
... can be a smooth valley between your breasts if your breasts are too small or not compressed enough to meet.
... is convex and rounded smoothly across the entire breast.
... jiggles slightly when you move, and may give just a HINT of instability.
... tops breasts that are uplifted (they stay in your Breast Zone instead of venturing into your Waist or Stomach Zone).
... makes people want to nuzzle it.

Bad cleavage...

... is a double line where each of your breasts droop past your breastbone.
... is a valley which is made too wide by clothing pressing your breasts out to the side.
... has dents and bumps where underpinnings or costume pieces dig into your breasts.
... shakes wildly when you move, and is in true danger of popping out of your outfit.
... tops breasts that are sagging down past your waist.
... has "slopover" coming out over the top of your clothing.

Corsets and Cinchers and Bustiers, Oh My

• Buy custom
  If you can afford it, buy a custom-made corset. They're going to fit better, and you'll be happier in the long run. If you can get a custom fitting from the corsetmaker, even better, but even ordering one to your body specifications over the web is better than buying one "off the rack". There are a couple of corset makers listed on my links page. Both of these come recommended.
• Start slowly
  It is tempting to want to cinch your waist in 8 or 10 inches the first time you put on a corset, but don't. Your body won't like it. Unless your waist is trained for this, tighten it until it is snug, and leave it there for a while. Tighten it a little farther after an hour or so. You can do this several times, until you get the desired effect. If you can't breathe or find your back or ribs hurting, loosen it back up! It's not worth the discomfort and damage to go for that extra 1/2".
• Check your profile
  Looking down at the magnificent expanse of cleavage, you may look fantastic. However, you may be suffering from slopover or indentations in your breasts from the top of your corset. If you can't find a mirror, borrow a friend to see how you look from all angles.
  Upper Back Lump: Many of us larger ladies will suffer from an upper back "roll" when lacing on a corset, as the flesh gets pushed upwards in the back just as it does in the front. Problem is, in the front it's cleavage, in the back it's a fat roll. You can help counter this a little by having someone push your skin down inside the corset as they lace, or by hiking the back of the corset up just a little bit higher. Even a half an inch higher can make a big difference in the line (says the voice of experience)!
• Use the buddy system
  Having a friend lace you up can help you get a better fit. It is entirely possible to lace yourself into a corset, but a second pair of hands is much nicer. Don't overlook the men...they often get a charge out of the engineering aspect of lacing you up, and can be quite good at it.
• Remove it slowly!
  Especially if you've been in it all day. If you release the corset suddenly, the resultant blood rush and resettling of internal organs can make you pass out, among other things. Loosen it slowly, in stages.

The Glorious Brassiere

• Fitting
  Nothing is less comfortable than a bra which doesn't fit. Interestingly enough, statistics show that most women wear the wrong size bra! There are boutiques that will do custom fittings (Lane Bryant and the Bon will both do bra fittings, though the Bon at least requires that you call ahead).

  General Fitting:
  1) Measure around your ribcage under your breasts, where the band will sit. Add 5". This number is the size of your bra! If it's an odd number, round up to the nearest even number.

  2) Measure around the fullest part of your breast while in your current bra. Subtract the first number from the second. The difference in whole inches translates to cup size.

  1/2"=AA
  1"=A
  2"=B
  3"=C
  4"=D
  5"=DD
  6"=DDD (custom?)

  Now that you know your proper bra size, take the time to actually try on any bras you're considering purchasing. Like most women's clothing, bras vary in construction and fit, even within the same brand. Check for lumps, "overflow" of the cups, and check the band to be sure it's not too tight. The band should be snug, but not create strange lumps.

  When trying on a bra, be sure to bend over and shake your breasts into the cups, then stand back up and check out your appearance from the sides and front. If you can, put on the clothes you want to wear over the bra and see how they look!

  If "your cups runneth over", you are probably wearing the wrong cup size. Many women compensate for a bra with too large a cup size by getting one with the wrong band size, which will then likely have too small a cup! When all else fails, take a variety of sizes in with you and try them until you find one you like.

  Another fitting point: Sit down while you're wearing the bra! What works while standing up may be a whole different story when you sit. (This actually applies to most clothes, but can make the difference between comfort and agony if you know ahead of time what it feels like to sit down wearing the bra you're considering).

• Wire vs. No Wire
  Professional fitters will swear that if your bra fits properly, wires are comfortable. I'm here to tell you that's a lie. Depending on how you're built and the build of the particular bra, wires can be anywhere from a godsend to a torture device. So do you choose wires or not? I won't touch them for daily wear, but sometimes I'll choose them for costume or "Con" specific fancy clothing, depending on the look I'm going for. Some things to consider about Underwire Bras:
  • Pro:
    - Much greater support than non-wired bras
    - A whole lot easier to find in large sizes!

  • Con:
    - Can be painful, especially in the armpit area and under the band when sitting
    - Sometimes more expensive
    - Can break and pinch you, or wear out the end and snake right out of the bra
    

  If you choose not to wear underwire bras, be assured that you can find supportive, comfortable bras in large sizes, even without wires. It will take perseverence and dedication, and probably visits to several department stores and specialty stores, but it can be done. Lane Bryant makes a brand called intimates which has a sturdy, attractive, supportive non-wire bra. Playtex makes a few as well, and there are others. Be prepared to try them on, examine each, and probably make a few mistakes along the way.

• Strapless vs. Straps
  Many outfits will conceal straps on a bra quite nicely, so that straps or strapless is basically a moot point. However, some flirtatious shirts are off-the-shoulder...how do you handle that?
  • Don't pull down your bra straps
    Bras with straps are built to need the straps, in most cases. If you have a convertible bra, removing the straps is okay. If it's not a convertible bra, sometimes pulling the straps down will squash your breasts out in a worse configuration than simply going without a bra!
  • Find a strapless with lift
    Yes, it's possible to find a strapless bra that really lifts and supports! I have one that I call my Rocket Boobs...it's far more supportive than any of the strapped bras I have. Again, Lane Bryant sells these.
  • Consider a long-line bra
    Strapless long-line bras have more support than the regular garden variety strapless bra, because they have more fabric below your breasts. They're often not the most attractive of garments, but sometimes you can find really nice satin or lace ones. As an added bonus, they help smooth lumps and bumps between your breasts and waist!

Underwear

• Undies or Not?
  I vote yes. Unless you are wearing tights with a cotton crotch, there are numerous health reasons you should be wearing undies with pants. I'm also not a big fan of the potential for flashing other people. Some of my girlfriends would argue this point and say that undies are unnecessary. To each their own.
• Panty Lines
  Panty lines are caused by wearing underwear that is too tight or too thick under clothes that cling. Just say no. Check out your rear in the mirror, or borrow a friend. Got weird dents and bumps and bulges? Find better undies, or move on to tights.
• Briefs, Bikinis, Thigh-Highs, Thongs
  More a matter of personal preference than anything. Some kinds are more prone to giving panty lines than others, and some are more comfortable than others. Briefs are unlikely to contribute to panty lines, since they rest at your waist and around the joint of your thigh, but they're usually not the first choice of the fashion conscious. Bikinis have a little more potential for panty lines, since they ride up across your cheeks most of the time. Thigh highs are my personal choice, since they ride up high on your waist, and low on the backside, but high in the front. Almost as invisible as briefs, but less reminiscent of Great Gramma Eunice's undies. As for thongs...well, I'm not personally a fan of butt-floss, but if you can find it in your size, and like it, more power to you.
• Control Panties
  One good reason to wear panties is that you can get them in control and support varieties. If you're wearing something extra tight, or clingy, you might consider this option. I personally consider them a torture device when trying to struggle into them, but some people swear by slimmers and shapers. They do control lumpybumpies!

Tights and Hosiery

Tights and leggings can smooth out your overall leg lines, hide cellulite and varicose veins, and give you a nice line from the waist down. They're also wonderfully comfortable if you get a pair that fits and wears well! The freedom of movement afforded by stretch leggings and a tunic is truly liberating.

Tights are also a common, integral part of many Renaissance and fantasy costumes. If you're wearing a long skirt, your choice of color, style, and thickness is probably less of a concern. But if you're going for the swashbuckling look with a long shirt or a tunic, and want to be using your tights as pants, you should probably choose leggings or very thick tights. They make a nice part of a goth or clubbing outfit too.

A few pointers that might be of assistance in picking out your legwear:

• Avoid Chafing!
  The best way to avoid that chafing feeling that I've found is to wear longline men's underwear or bicycle shorts in extra large sizes over the top of your hose. This of course only works if your clothing will cover them up adequately. If you sew, you can also make longline undies yourself out of old swimsuit material!
• Tights, pantyhose, or leggings?
  Depending on what you want to accomplish, all three have things to recommend them.
  • Tights are thicker and stronger than pantyhose, and can be anywhere from thick nylon to stretchy lycra or knit. Warmer and more durable than pantyhose, but often prone to becoming somewhat translucent when stretched thin, so they may not be the best choice to wear under tunics or short shirts.
  • Pantyhose are thin, notoriously prone to running, and sometimes hard to find in larger sizes. I recommend Just My Size pantyhose for a good fit and durability.
  • Leggings can be footed or have no feet. They are usually made of fabric instead of nylon, and can often be worn with nothing over the top of them, such as under a tunic or with a shirt. Velvet leggings are one of the finer things in life. However, they can pill and fuzz up when you walk if your legs rub together, so be on the lookout for worn spots, holes, and little balls of velvetfuzz.
• Make Your Own!
  If you can sew, leggings are a very simple article of clothing to make. You can make them in bright colors, and even make the left side a different color from the right for that Renaissance Jester look. Lycra, stretch velvet, and stretch cotton make excellent choices.